What They Came and Fought For

What They Came and Fought For

by Joseph N Goodell

It is not entirely clear what the Union Army was after during that seriously brutal encounter in early April 1862 near Shiloh Church. No doubt for increased control of the Tennessee River, and of course, farther south for possession of the important railroad junction in Corinth, Mississippi.

But there are those who maintain that what each of those Yankees was really fighting for was his fill of a hearty, legendary, and sensationally scrumptious slugburger he’d heard tell of at Borroum’s Drug Store on East Waldron Street.

Undaunted by the somewhat unappetizing name, slang for the mere nickel which one would cost, they craved that delectable delicacy celebrated by north Mississippians. In hard times a chef could extend both his budget and the main ingredient, ground beef, by mixing in potato flakes, cornmeal, soy grits, bread crumbs, or perhaps cracker meal, wheat flour, and egg as a binder.

Beef was indeed scarce in the hard times of 1862, so promotion by the Confederate command that the boys were being provided fresh beef had to be significant overstatement. One of the “boys,” a Mississippian, wrote home that “the only cow that our reg’m’nt ever got was so wasted that it took two  ‘f us t’ hold the critter up so’s another could shoot it.”

So when good, but very scarce beef was available, a chef would blend the extended patty with his special seasoning, then deep fry, not grill it to a golden brown in oil. Dressed with ample mustard and aromatic onions, he served it piping hot on a toasted bun with sliced pickle. He could round out the finished product with a side of fries and coleslaw. But because it was such a luxury then, and now because it would break with tradition, there is no asking for cheese.

Today slugburgers are served in cafes besides that authentic soda fountain in Borroum’s. You’ll find them in Iuka and in Tupelo, where they are called doughburgers and were savored by Elvis Presley at Johnnie’s Drive-In. The slugburger’s concept of thrift was emphasized in the early 20th century when John Weeks came to Corinth with his own recipe. He called his specialty Weeksburgers, still popular at Weeks’ diner in nearby Booneville.

It is now your privilege during the second weekend of every July for your own fill of this culinary delight of Mississippi at the Slugburger Festival in Corinth. While you are there, enjoy live entertainment at the train depot and the carnival at Trailhead Park.